One of the origins of the Santa Claus we know is the Dutch version, Sinterklaas. He's got the big white beard and the red robes, but he looks more like a bishop, with the bishop's crook and the pointy hat. As well he should: he's directly based on St. Nicholas, a fourth-century bishop from Turkey. That's why the Sinterklaas celebration is tonight, because tomorrow is the feast day of St. Nicholas.
But that's where it gets weird. If you want a lengthy explanation, I'll send you to Wikipedia, but here's the summary. Sinterklaas arrives in the Netherlands in mid-November, on a boat from Spain. Yes, Spain. Yes, I know St. Nicholas was Turkish and Santa Claus comes from the North Pole. And yes, there's an elaborate relic-stealing explanation for this (by the time the legend originated here, the relics of St. Nicholas had been stolen by a Spanish town). He brings presents and tucks them into children's shoes (that's quite common in Europe, as opposed to our Christmas stockings). If children are naughty, he ties them up in sacks and takes them away to Spain on his boat, which seems like a much worse punishment than just no presents. If they're only a little naughty, they get beaten with sticks by his helpers. That's the best part of the whole story. Sinterklaas comes with what are called Zwarte Pieten. That translates, literally, as Black Petes.
Okay, so I lied. This is where it gets really weird. Because Zwarte Pieten are little helpers, just like elves, and dressed like old-style pages (think Swiss guards, or something like that: poufy sleeves, frilly collar, bright colours, feathered hats, and so on). Except they're wearing black face makeup. Like this:
Lest you think I hunted that down on Google, I took this picture on Saturday afternoon, from my apartment window. Your eyes don't deceive you: that's an adult in blackface. There were a bunch of them, parading around the neighbourhood. There were more at the weekly market, playing instruments (well) and singing (badly). And they were all extremely pale adults wearing blackface. Sometimes they wear bright red lipstick and big curly wigs to complete the whole look. You really can't make this stuff up.
As you might expect, this has become rather controversial in recent years. The Dutch are very protective of their Zwarte Pieten, though. We've been asking as many Dutch people as we can, and there are two different explanations. Some will agree that it's not very politically correct, but they don't mean it in a racist way, and it's tradition. And others go the other way, and try to argue that it's not mean like that, and he's just black because he came down the chimney. Right.
But you know, the kids love it. The stores start selling the little feather hats and little Zwarte Piet costumes in like October, and from the time Sinterklaas arrives in the Netherlands, you see little children wearing them all over the place. Like, small child shopping with mom wearing a little feathered hat on a random Tuesday. It's very, very sweet.
And if you're an expat with a really weird sense of humour, it's hysterically funny. Stefan loves the Zwarte Pieten. Which is why, last Christmas, I bought these:
Mugs, featuring Zwarte Pieten balancing on top of one another. And he laughs every time he uses them, too.
This holiday's really only for kids. Adults exchange presents on December 25, and when you shop, the clerks will actually ask you whether something is a present, and if it is, they'll ask whether it's for the 5th or Christmas. This was tremendously confusing last year, when my Dutch wasn't good enough to follow that much. They ask because they then proceed (for free) to wrap your presents for you, and they have different wrapping paper for Sinterklaas. It's kind of awesome. I don't mind wrapping presents, so I wouldn't really care either way, but Stefan's a fan.
But despite it being only for kids, some of the PhD students and junior profs in Stefan's department have a Sinterklaas party. As we have the biggest apartment, we've hosted for the last two years. So last Tuesday, we had five of his coworkers over for Sinterklaas presents and stamppot with rookworst, which is the most (and only) Dutch dish I can think of. Basically, it's mashed potatoes with kale (or whatever other vegetables you want) mashed in there, with smoked sausage on top. And gravy and bacon, because many things in life can be improved by gravy and bacon. Sounds... completely unappetizing, doesn't it? It's not as bad as it sounds. Bland for my tastes, and I'm not the biggest potato fan in the world, but not as bad as I'd expected. I've put the pictures here.
More pictures coming in the next couple of days, from our other pre-Christmas festivities in Germany, but until then, I'll keep an eye out the window for soggy people in runny black makeup ;)
1 comment:
It is a bit of an odd celebration isn't it?
PC aside they've been doing it that way for centuries it's not like you can just stop. And I don't think it's meant to be racist in any way shape or form.
Cool that the photo is from your window! :)
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